BDSM and Fashion: A Growing Romance

Originally written and published in 2018.

Fashion has always been a major influencing force in our society, even though a lot of people dislike admitting it. Fashion is not just random swatches of fabrics that were sewn together in any manner. Every change and development in fashion has been a signifier for social and cultural or political changes in society. A good example of this is the rise of fetishism and BDSM (Bondage-Discipline-Sadism-Masochism) in fashion.

Image by Deon Black via Unsplash

Fetishism is more than just adding latex and leather into your garments, it’s a history and sub-culture that needs to be given the acknowledgement it deserves, and while the origins of BDSM and sexual fetishism are murky, but it can be traced back all the way to “early Mesopotamia (4000-3100 BCE)” and that “these records found domination-style celebrations and sacrifices involving cross-dressing... and lots of combined pain and ecstasy...” (Slutty Girl Problems, n.d.)

And a few millennia later, the term BDSM was coined in the 1960s, and since then this underground and taboo subculture has crept out of the woodwork and slowly began influencing fashion and society. In the 1960s, when punk designers like Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren brought leather and latex to their collections and runways. In Fetish: Fashion, Sex & Power by Valerie Steele, she says “fashion quite often exhibits elements of fantasy... Sexual themes, in particular, have become increasingly noticeable. Corsets, bizarre shoes and boots, leather and rubber, and underwear as outerwear... have become almost as common on catwalks as in fetish clubs”. (Steele, 1996)

The most recent example of its influence is Moschino’s F/W18 runway. With their pinstriped ensembles, bold graphic prints, military-style silhouettes and the almost obscene amount of latex, the collection was a visual experience. The most notable design element was the latex, which has origins in the subculture of fetishism and BDSM. As colours and fabrics transitioned from black and grey to khaki and olive green, the glossy, black latex remained constant, styled into thigh-high, laced up boots, face masks, harnesses and belts, sleek, long gloves and army-inspired caps. (Vogue, 2018)

Moschino has now joined the most iconic fetish-inspired collections alongside, Alexander McQueen FW11 and Thierry Mugler FW95 runways. McQueen’s delicate touches of black leather harnesses that stood out against flowing dresses, and added an edge to skin-tight leather ensembles, and Thierry Mugler’s 1995 runway featured iconic models like Naomi Campbell in latex bodysuits, sensual, teasing cutouts and sweeping, structured hats.

“It makes me happy to see people feeling comfortable and safe enough to express themselves and wear what they feel good in,” said A.

In recent years, due to the popular book series and movie franchise, Fifty Shades of Grey, the conversation of kinks and fetishes were brought to the general public. When asked what she thinks about fashion brands using materials and accessories influenced by BDSM and fetish culture, A, who is a fetish fashion model (@acrofinity on Instagram) said, “I think it's great. I grew up in a religious, rural town... I felt guilty for liking what I did, but now with fashion brands doing what they are it's becoming less taboo, which makes it easier for people to just do what they love... It’s great that they're taking something that was seen as bad and making a positive thing from it.”

Independent and big fashion brands began selling more PVC, vinyl, latex and leather, and accessories that drew heavy inspiration from fetish paraphernalia, especially leather chokers, fishnet stockings, lingerie-inspired garments and more. The fact that these garments and accessories are now readily available for an affordable price, people can incorporate them into their daily style, and it expresses a part of their personality that would have been considered inappropriate to display in public before, in an act of sexual liberation. (sleek mag, 2018)

In a time where people are becoming more accepting of sexuality (female sexuality especially), fashion is definitely still a constant tool in which people can express their individuality.