The breastplate – will it trickle down to fast fashion?
_shift discusses what is likely to be the most surprising trend of 2020.
The most popular fast fashion trends of 2019, like exaggerated puff sleeves and the classic corset, were a result of the trickle-down effect that the fashion industry survives on. From haute couture runways to the high street and then to your wardrobes, the cycle continues. With this year’s first iconic red carpet look worn by none other than Zendaya, we’re looking at a new trend: the breastplate.
Zendaya at the Critics Choice Award in a fuchsia breastplate.
Image courtesy of Zendaya’s Instagram (@zendaya)
Zendaya at the Critics Choice Award in a fuchsia breastplate. Image courtesy of Zendaya’s Instagram (@zendaya)
Zendaya, Euphoria star and style icon, has singlehandedly saved what has been an unremarkable events season. She dazzled on the red carpet of the 2020 Critics’ Choice Awards on January 12 donning a standout look from Tom Ford’s SS20 collection — a fuchsia metallic breastplate gown. This is not the first time Zendaya has worn armour-inspired couture. At the 2018 Met Gala, she stunned in a metallic chainmail Versace gown that took inspiration from Joan of Arc.
A brief history of the breastplate in fashion
The breastplate, or muscle cuirass, traces its origins to the battlefields of old. It was introduced by the Greek army in the 5th century BCE, while also exemplifying the ideal human physique. The breastplate inspired a women’s style cuirasse bodice in 1875. It was a sheath-like top that extended into a point below the skirt’s waistline, fitting tightly over the hips, which according to historian Penelope Byrde, had “the appearance of a piece of armour”. The 20th and 21st centuries saw designers incorporating the breastplate into their collections. From Thierry Mugler’s rigid bustier, Alexander McQueen’s blazing, theatrical runways, and more — each bringing their own unique take to the timeless battledress.
Sinead O’Dwyer, a graduate of the Royal Academy of the Arts (RCA), is a young designer who creates silicone moulds of the feminine form. This has gained her considerable online popularity for her unique subversion of female beauty standards. In a 2019 interview with Dazed, she said that she explores how we: “Perceive [our] bodies versus the reality of what it actually looks like”. This led her to create pieces that fit the body, instead of making the body adhere to the garment. Despite the varying interpretations over the years, one thing has remained the same — the breastplate in fashion has represented the warrior spirit in conjunction with the feminine figure.
Tsunina, a model and musician, wears a Sinead O’Dwyer breastplate.
Will the breastplate find its way into fast fashion?
Over recent years, the fashion industry has developed a love for charming and romantic vintage aesthetics like the iconic Vivienne Westwood corset. Vivienne Westwood is a British designer best known for being a pioneer of punk-inspired haute couture in the 1970s. The classic corset made its debut in her 1987 Harris Tweed collection.
This was revived in late 2019 and made available in limited quantity in London, New York, Paris, Milan and Los Angeles. The classic design was stocked in three shades – ivory, red and black. The simple but flattering design quickly trickled down to fast fashion brands like Topshop and Missguided, which sold a much more affordable version, ranging from £18 to £25 (the original retails at £1,045).
Black satin corset top from Missguided (left) and Topshop retailing (right).
Given that most fast fashion trends are a result of the trickle-down effect, will we soon see the breastplate in stores like Topshop? Possibly. Brands like Fashion Nova have repeatedly churned out wallet-friendly versions of viral or trendy celebrity outfits (ahem, the Kardashian-Jenners). Kim Kardashian West has also been seen wearing a breastplate-inspired bodice on a red carpet. However, the breastplate would definitely be classed as a bold statement piece even if given a more affordable price tag and could be styled similar to Miyake’s interpretation as seen above. Perhaps we will even see more independent designers like O’Dwyer creating their own versions of the breastplate.
Let’s wait and see if fast fashion picks up on this burgeoning trend.
